Normandy is full of beautiful towns and villages. The most famous places are located along the coast and are frequently visited by tourists. However, there is plenty to see in the Normandy countryside as well. Medieval towns and villages that have stood the test of time, where it feels like stepping back in history. One of these places is the town of Bellême, located in the Perche Regional Natural Park, in the southwest of the Orne department.
A brief history of Bellême
Bellême dates back to the 10th century when Yves de Creil built a castle at a crossroads. This marked the beginning of a rich history, in which Bellême grew into one of the main cities of the County of Perche. The town was heavily fortified, with complete walls, two entrance gates and two watchtowers. Bellême was captured and destroyed multiple times during the Hundred Years’ War and the Wars of Religion also took their toll. Until the 16th century, Bellême was considered the capital of Perche due to its strong defenses, but over time, the administrative role shifted to Mortagne-au-Perche.
What to see in Bellême
Not much remains of Bellême’s once mighty fortifications. In some areas, you can still see parts of the old town walls, the former castle walls and traces of the moat. One of the two original gates and one of the fortified towers have also been preserved. Despite this, there is still plenty to see in the 1.71 km² town, evoking a sense of history. In fact, Bellême has been awarded the Petite Cité de Caractère label, recognizing its historical charm. Simply wandering through Bellême is a pleasure, but there are some spots that definitely deserve a visit. If you’re in town, make sure to check out these highlights.
Le Porche Saint Sauveur
The remaining city gate of Bellême, Le Porche Saint Sauveur, connects Rue Ville Close with Place de la République. It is believed that the gate was rebuilt during the English occupation of Perche in the 15th century, after the original one was destroyed. The gate has a passage leading to an inner chamber, from which you can exit on the other side via a staircase. This deep passageway gives a great impression of how thick the fortifications must have been in the past. Today, the gate is classified as an endangered structure. For years, salt was stored in one of the towers and combined with moisture, it has caused the stone to deteriorate. In the photo below, you can see that restoration work has already been carried out on the left side, while the right side is still awaiting repairs.
Église Saint-Sauveur de Bellême
The Église Saint-Sauveur is a historically classified monument (since 1987) and dates back to the 17th century. The church is particularly notable for its bell tower, where the bell is not positioned in the center of the tower, which is typically the case with most bell towers. The church’s ceiling is painted, a feature that extends to many of its walls as well. This style is commonly seen in churches throughout Normandy, along with the extensive use of intricately carved wood.
Rue Ville Close
The Rue Ville Close is perhaps the crown jewel of Bellême. This cobbled street, curving gently through the town, is lined with grand townhouses on both sides. Colorful facades, complete with French balconies and shuttered windows, steal the show, while authentic street lanterns add to the charm. Most of the houses date back to the 18th and 19th centuries, though a few were already built in the 17th century.
Rue aux Gélines
A street you won’t read much about but should definitely walk through is Rue aux Gélines. It is much narrower than Rue Ville Close; perhaps better described as a wide alley. Unfortunately, it is no longer cobbled, but the crooked, weathered walls with peeling plaster, combined with charming street lighting, make this little street highly photogenic.
Tour de l’Horloge
The Tour de l’Horloge (clock tower) is one of the remaining fortified towers of the town’s defenses, built in the 13th century. This clock tower is also listed as a historic monument. Unfortunately, we missed it during our visit, but from what we’ve heard, it is definitely worth seeing.
Chapelle Saint-Santin de Bellême
The Chapelle Saint-Santin de Bellême (also known as Notre-Dame-du-Vieux-Château) was founded by Yves de Creil as part of the castle he built in the 10th century. However, the chapel was not in use for long; at the beginning of the 11th century, the clergy moved to the chapel in the new castle of Bellême. The chapel houses a crypt and ancient wall paintings. In the 1970s, it was registered as a historic monument.
La Savonnerie de la Chapelle
During a walk through Bellême, be sure to stop by La Savonnerie de la Chapelle, especially if you’re a fan of soap. This is where soap blocks are made, in all sorts of scents and colors. The soap is produced in an artisanal way, using only natural ingredients. The space is completely open, so as you browse through all the soaps, you can immediately see how they are made.
Visit more beautiful places in Orne
The department of Orne offers many beautiful places to visit. Think of Alençon, the third-largest city in Basse-Normandie, but the smaller towns are also worth a visit. In addition to Bellême, I also visit La Perrière and Mortagne-au-Perche, two towns that, like Bellême, carry the label Petite cité de caractère.
