During my stay in the French Orne (Basse-Normandie), I discover several towns bearing the label Petite Cité de Caractère; a French designation for small towns and villages recognized for their unique character and heritage. Alongside the charming La Perrière and the picturesque Bellême, I also visit Mortagne-au-Perche, the former capital of the County of Perche, located in the heart of the Perche Regional Natural Park.
Stepping back in time in Mortagne-au-Perche
Mortagne was once a fortified stronghold situated on a hill. Fort Toussaint, as the fortress was called, served as the residence of the Counts of Perche. It was built in the 11th and 12th centuries in a pentagonal shape, with three entrance gates and several towers. During the Hundred Years’ War, the fortress was heavily damaged. Alongside restoration efforts, part of the town outside the fortress was also enclosed by walls. This wall featured twenty towers and five gates and was considered a true masterpiece of military architecture.
After the fortress lost its strategic value in the 16th century, it was dismantled. A few parts were preserved, such as one of the gates and sections of the city wall. Unfortunately, the original shape of the fort is no longer visible in the current street layout of Mortagne-au-Perche.
From the 17th century onwards, many mansions were built in Mortagne-au-Perche by noble families and wealthy merchants who settled in the town. The façades were richly decorated and you can still spot authentic sundials on various buildings today.
What to see in Mortagne-au-Perche?
There is plenty to see in Mortagne-au-Perche; you can easily spend a few hours strolling through the town. As many as 17 buildings in Mortagne-au-Perche are listed as historical monuments. Below, you can read more about various sights in Mortagne-au-Perche.
Porte Saint-Denis
The only remaining gate of Fort Toussaint from the 12th century is Porte Saint-Denis. The two upper floors of the gatehouse house the Musée Percheron, where you can view Pecheron clothing, tableware and other antiquities. The museum is open during the summer months.
Église Notre-Dame
One of the buildings at the top of the list of historical monuments in Mortagne-au-Perche is Église Notre-Dame. The church was built at the beginning of the 16th century, near the chapter church, part of Fort Toussaint. The Gothic church features stunning vaulted ceilings and 18th-century wooden paneling.
Crypte Saint-André
About 100 meters from Église Notre-Dame, beneath the current courthouse and on the site where the chapter church once stood, a crypt has been preserved. Crypte Saint-André features beautiful 13th-century vaults and can be found on Rue du Fort, opposite Maison du Doyen de Toussaint.
Maison du Doyen de Toussaint
Maison du Doyen de Toussaint was built for the dean of the collegiate church at the end of the 15th century. On the front of the house stands an octagonal tower, which houses the staircase. Maison du Doyen de Toussaint is located on the same street as the church, just a little further along. Like 16 other buildings in Mortagne, it is listed as a historical monument.
Rue aux Chevaux
One of the most beautiful spots in Mortagne-au-Perche, in my opinion, is the street Rue aux Chevaux. Here, you can easily imagine what it must have looked like centuries ago. It seems unchanged since that time, except for a few downpipes along the walls and antennas on the roofs.
Halle aux Grains
Halle aux Grains was built at the beginning of the 19th century as a market hall for storing and trading grain. The upper floor housed a space where linen was sold. Today, the ground floor is home to a media library, while the upper floor hosts a cinema. Although the building has lost its original function, it is still considered an important landmark in Mortagne-au-Perche.
Hotel du Tribunal
Hotel du Tribunal is a hotel (with a restaurant) located in former residential buildings dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. It is situated near Porte Saint-Denis; you’re likely to pass by it when visiting the gate.
Chapelle et Cloître Saint-François
The Cloître du Couvent Saint François was built at the beginning of the 16th century under the commission of Marguerite de Lorraine for the Poor Clares. In 1800, the convent became national property and parts of it were converted into a hospital. The chapel of the convent has barely changed since the 16th century and is regarded as a unique example of architectural value.
Tribunes de l’Hippodrome
Just outside the center of Mortagne-au-Perche, you will find the town’s racetrack, home to 19th-century grandstands. The grandstands, built in 1825, were restored in 1997 and are the oldest preserved racetrack grandstands in France. Naturally, they are listed as historic monuments. While the grandstands are not accessible, you can learn about the history of the Société des Courses de Mortagne on-site.
Restaurants in Mortagne-au-Perche
Mortagne-au-Perche has many great restaurants to choose from. One of my favorites is Les Carottes Sont Cuites. This cozy little courtyard, accessible via an alley from Rue Notre Dame or through the adjacent concept store Leklapier, offers dishes prepared with organic ingredients, all in a charming and atmospheric setting. On a nice day, you can sit outside in the courtyard and on less favorable days, there are plenty of cozy spots indoors. Highly recommended! For dinner, we head to La Brasserie, located at Place du Général de Gaulle. The menu features classic French brasserie dishes such as hamburgers, schnitzels with fries, steak tartare, pasta… the usual fare. Totally fine and enjoyable!
Shopping in Mortagne-au-Perche
I wouldn’t recommend dedicating an entire day to shopping in Mortagne-au-Perche, but there are certainly some lovely stores and boutiques to explore. Be sure to stop by the concept store Leklapier, which I mentioned earlier. Spread across different floors, accessible via a narrow spiral staircase, you’ll find a variety of unique items. Need some gifts? This is the place to go! At the start of Rue Notre Dame, you’ll find a few charming shops and other stores are scattered throughout the town. It’s a perfect spot to wander around and pop into shops along the way!
Combining Mortagne-au-Perche in Orne with other beautiful spots
Orne may be a lesser-known region in Normandy, but it’s truly a gem to explore! In the beautiful, rolling green landscape, you’ll find regional nature parks, castles and medieval villages and towns. Think of places like Alençon, Bellême, Argentan, Bagnoles-de-l’Orne, La Perrière and Domfront. It’s highly recommended to spend a few nights here, especially if you’re planning to visit Brittany!
