When I’m in the Spanish town of Cadaqués, I decide to visit Portlligat, the picturesque bay where Salvador Dalí lived for many years. Portlligat was so special to Dalí that he chose to create his own world there. I’m curious if, once I’m there, I can immediately see and feel what drew Dalí to this place. What is so special about Portlligat that made it such a powerful source of inspiration for him?
Ermita de Sant Baldiri
I park the car for free in the large parking lot along Av. de Sant Baldiri, just a few minutes’ walk from Portlligat. Right at the corner stands the Ermita de Sant Baldiri: a simple, whitewashed chapel built in 1702. Originally, the chapel was dedicated to Saints Abdó and Senén, but later it was dedicated to Sant Baldiri. It’s worth stepping inside and taking a look at the modest interior.
Heads of Dalí and Gala
As I continue walking along the road towards Portlligat, I see two striking sculptures rising from the otherwise predominantly green landscape to my right. The steel heads symbolize Dalí and his wife Gala, an unmistakable reference to the artist’s surrealist vision.
Portlligat: this was Dalí’s world
After a few minutes, I find myself with my feet in the crystal-clear water of the Portlligat bay. In front of me, I see an idyllic little harbor, surrounded by the rocky coastline. Colorful boats gently bob up and down. The houses around the small square are covered with lush bougainvillea. I can easily imagine why Dalí felt at home here. The serenity of the bay, the unspoiled landscape and the isolation seem like the perfect ingredients for peace and creativity.
From decaying fisherman’s shack to surreal, labyrinthine house
Drawn by the light and the unique landscape, Salvador Dalí bought a small, decaying fisherman’s shack on this spot in 1930. It didn’t take long for Dalí to expand the house, creating spaces he referred to as “cells.” The result was a labyrinthine house with narrow hallways, unexpected corners, and various levels.
Dalí described his house as a biological structure, where each expansion reflected a new phase in his life. The interior mirrors his personal style: antiques, velvet, carpets, dried flowers and objects that reflect his life and work. The windows, each with a unique shape and size, always offer a view of the Portlligat bay; also a recurring motif in his paintings.
During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), Dalí and Gala temporarily moved to the United States. In 1948, they returned to Portlligat and began the next phase of expansions. They added more fisherman’s huts to the house and created new work and living spaces, including a larger studio. Gala took charge of the interior design, purchasing furniture from antique dealers in Olot and La Bisbal.
In the 1950s and 1960s, the house continued to grow with the construction of a library, a second studio, a summer dining room and eventually a swimming pool. The outdoor spaces received increasing attention and were designed as surrealistic settings. The courtyard was enclosed by walls to create a private, almost sacred atmosphere.
Via Làctia, the Milky Way Path along the water
A special detail is the Milky Way Path (Via Làctia) that Dalí designed in 1958: a white limestone path along the sea, marked by a pomegranate tree. He also built a tower where he experimented with sound; clay receptacles produced whistling tones when the strong tramontana wind blew.
From the 1970s onwards, the house became a social hub where Dalí welcomed guests and performed artistic displays. After Gala’s death in 1982, he left Portlligat and retreated to the Púbol Castle.
Visit the Casa Museu Salvador Dalí in Portlligat
Today, Dalí fans (or admirers, perhaps even devotees) from all over the world come to this unique place to learn more about the life and work of the iconic artist. The house is now a museum, divided into three zones: the private quarters, the studio with his art objects and the outdoor spaces where Dalí held his extravagant gatherings. In 2009, an additional space in the olive grove was opened to the public, where Dalí created his sculptures and performances. Tickets for Casa Museu Salvador Dalí are easy to purchase in advance online.
