Before I left for the Italian island of Procida, I had, of course, already done some reading. I knew I was heading to an island with good restaurants, but I didn’t expect the food to be this exceptional. The more I learned about the island while I was there, the more I realized that Procida is truly a culinary destination. It’s no coincidence that famous chefs like Jamie Oliver and Gino D’Acampo visit the island for inspiration and to film their television programs.
Famous dishes from Procida
Many restaurant menus on Procida feature dishes with lemon as a key ingredient. Lemon trees grow all over the island and the fruit is used in a variety of ways. It’s no surprise that Procida lemons are considered a local specialty and the island is often referred to as the island of lemons. These lemons are less acidic and naturally sweeter than the ones we are used to. In addition to lemon-based dishes, Procida offers an abundance of seafood. Some of the island’s culinary specialties include spaghetti al pesto di limone (spaghetti with lemon pesto), spaghetti ai ricci di mare (spaghetti with sea urchin), spaghetti con le canocchie (spaghetti with mantis shrimp) and polpette di pesce spada e melanzane (fried swordfish and eggplant balls). You’ll hardly find meat on the menu, but rabbit, on the other hand, is quite common (coniglio alla procidana). Anchovies (pasta con alici) and squid (calamari alla procidana) are also widely enjoyed on the island.
Restaurants on Procida, best places to eat
Procida may be a small island, but it has an overwhelming number of restaurants, making it difficult to choose where to eat. If you wander around without doing any prior research, you’ll likely base your choice on appearances. However, that’s not always the best approach on Procida. Many restaurants don’t look particularly inviting, especially when the weather is bad and dining indoors is the only option. But the food can be fantastic, even if the ambiance isn’t. Without proper recommendations, you might miss out on some incredible dining experiences, which would be a real shame. During my six-day stay on Procida, I dined at twelve different restaurants. In this article, I’ll share the places where I had the best meals or the most enjoyable dining experiences.
La Medusa
La Medusa is located on the north side of Procida, in Marina Grande (Porto di Sancio Cattolico). If you arrive by boat, you’ll come across it almost immediately. It was one of the first restaurants recommended to us by our B&B owner. On sunny days, you can sit on the terrace and in the summer, you’ll even catch the late afternoon and evening sun. However, it is a busy area with traffic, unlike the idyllic Marina Corricella on the other side of the island. When we visited in early April, there was no sun on the terrace at lunchtime, so we decided to have dinner there instead.
Inside, the atmosphere is pleasant despite the bright white lighting that is common in many restaurants on the island. The tables are neatly set and the blue-and-white striped napkins give the place a bit of a beachy feel. The kitchen is semi-open, which I always enjoy, as it allows you to watch the chefs at work. You can order using a QR code on your phone, though you don’t actually have to place the order online; the staff will take your order in person. While I still find QR code ordering a bit impersonal, I understand why restaurants use it, as it reduces the risk of errors, especially with foreign guests.
We ordered several appetizers and a main course, all of which were delicious! The presentation was beautiful, making each dish a feast for the eyes. The flavors were perfectly balanced. The polpette di pesce spada e melanzane (swordfish and eggplant balls) were a standout and the crispy baked shell with soft cheese and anchovies was also fantastic. The wine list looked impressive and the waiter was happy to recommend pairings. I can confidently say that La Medusa served the best food I had on Procida, but it wasn’t the coziest place to dine.
Il Pescatore
Il Pescatore is, in my opinion, the nicest restaurant along the waterfront of Marina Corricella. It has a modern look, which makes it stand out. Instead of the usual square tables with colorful tablecloths, it features stylish wooden tables with woven placemats. This alone makes the terrace more inviting. From this narrow spot on the quay, you have a stunning view of the brightly colored fishing boats in the picturesque harbor.
The chef at Il Pescatore cooks with organic, locally sourced ingredients; straight from the land or sea. This results in Mediterranean dishes with a modern twist, perfectly complementing the restaurant’s aesthetic. After dining at several more traditional restaurants on Procida, where the food was tasty but presented simply, the beautifully plated dishes at Il Pescatore were a true delight, both visually and in terms of flavor.
Above Il Pescatore, you’ll find a lovely accommodation: B&B San Michele. We took a tour of a few rooms and were very impressed. There are four types of rooms: standard, superior, junior suite and suite. Each room has a balcony overlooking the harbor. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to stay there ourselves, but it’s certainly one of the most beautiful places to stay on Procida. While it’s not the cheapest option, it offers an exceptional experience.
La Lampara
Another must-visit in Marina Corricella is La Lampara. In my opinion, it boasts the best view of the harbor. The restaurant serves traditional dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. From its terrace, you can admire the colorful houses along the quay and watch fishing boats entering the harbor. That’s the beauty of dining in Marina Corricella, you can consciously choose your setting. You can either be part of the charming scene, sitting on the quay among the fishing nets or enjoy the view from above.
La Lampara is part of Hotel La Corricella, where all rooms have access to a shared terrace overlooking the harbor. While the accommodations don’t offer the same level of style and luxury as B&B San Michele, they are more affordable.
Ristorante Pizzeria Fuego
Back to the quay for a restaurant nestled among the fishing nets: Pizzeria Fuego. Compared to many other restaurants, the prices here are slightly lower. Since it’s a weekday, we can’t order pizza; that’s only available on weekends. Whether that’s also the case during high season, I’m not sure.
We order a pasta dish and fried zucchini flowers, both of which taste delicious. It’s a lovely spot on the quay of Marina Corricella, right by the water. With a bit of luck, you might catch a glimpse of fishermen busy repairing their nets.
Cala Cala Rooms & Farm Experience
The coziest restaurant where I dine on Procida is Cala Cala. Part of Cala Cala Rooms & Farm Experience, the restaurant is located in a prominent spot in the garden of the complex, right next to the swimming pool. Unlike many other restaurants on Procida, which often have harsh, bright white lighting that takes away from the atmosphere, Cala Cala is beautifully decorated and features warm, inviting lighting.
The dishes are presented beautifully, though we feel the starters lack a bit of a special touch here and there. A shame, considering the price. However, the main courses are delicious. If ambiance is important to you, this is definitely the place to be. But if you’re looking for perfectly balanced flavors that turn a dish into a true culinary masterpiece, I would personally recommend restaurants like La Medusa and Il Pescatore when it comes to taste.
Cala Cala is a true gem when it comes to accommodations on the island. It’s set away from the hustle and bustle, making it an ideal place to stay if you’re looking for a few days of peace on Procida. The complex boasts a large garden with sunbeds and umbrellas, right next to the beautifully landscaped swimming pool; perfect for a relaxing stroll. Cala Cala offers a variety of rooms, from standard double and triple rooms to options like a queen-size bed with a whirlpool. Prefer to cook your own meals with fresh, local ingredients from the island? There’s even an apartment available.
Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo
Many people who take a day trip to Procida probably never make it to Marina Chiaiolella, the island’s third harbor, located further inland. Here, you’ll find Crescenzo, a restaurant that has been around since 1953.
In the morning, Crescenzo is a favorite spot for Chiaiolella locals to enjoy a cup of coffee and a lingua, preferably on the terrace. On sunny days, it’s the perfect place to soak up the sun while overlooking the harbor. Unfortunately, during our visit for lunch, the weather is cloudy and cool, so we dine inside. The dishes we order are excellent; especially the polpette di pesce spada e melanzane (fried swordfish and eggplant balls). They are absolutely divine. The best I’ve had on the island!
Looking for a quieter place to stay on Procida while still enjoying the harbor atmosphere? Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo could be a great option. Located right in the marina, just 200 meters from the long sandy beach Spiaggia Libera della Chiaiolella, it’s the perfect spot to watch the sun dip into the sea at sunset. A traditional Italian breakfast with a harbor view in the morning. Sounds pretty perfect, right?
La Pergola
Would you like to dine among the Italians in a traditional restaurant on Procida? Then La Pergola is the place to be. In summer, this must be one of the most charming spots to eat outdoors, beneath the lemon trees. Inside, the restaurant is authentic. Though, once again due to the lighting, not the most atmospheric place. But if you’re looking to mingle with locals, this is a great choice. La Pergola seems to be a favorite among Neapolitans and Procida’s residents. Entire families and groups of friends gather here, making it a lively and noisy dining experience.
The dishes we order are quite plain. The fish of the day arrives on a plate with just one lettuce leaf. I find myself waiting for some kind of garnish… but it never comes. Personally, I love Italian dishes with a modern twist, beautifully plated meals with the occasional surprise. You generally won’t find that in traditional restaurants like this. But still, spending an evening among Italian families is a great experience and in summer, the tables under the lemon trees must create a picture-perfect setting.
La Controra
One evening, we find ourselves at La Controra in Marina Grande. Not because we chose it, but because many other restaurants are closed. At first glance, it’s not the most inviting place. The conservatory at the front looks a bit chilly, with diners even wearing coats. Not exactly welcoming. But when we realize that the actual indoor seating is further inside, we decide to give it a chance.
And surprisingly, the food is really good. We start by sharing an eggplant, tomato and mozzarella appetizer: delicious! Over the next few days, we order this dish at other places, but none come close to the one at La Controra. For the main course, we go for a pizza with Parma ham, which is also excellent. The ambiance inside isn’t particularly cozy or atmospheric, but the quality of the food more than makes up for it. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to take photos that evening.
Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella
Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella is the type of restaurant where you’ll find brightly colored tablecloths and traditional dishes. The grilled vegetables are simple yet delicious. Pure flavors of eggplant, zucchini and bell pepper that I could easily eat every day. However, one downside to Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella is that the view of the harbor is blocked by the high mountains with fishing nets. While it’s charming to dine among the nets, it’s also nice to have a view. If you’re looking to watch boats, it’s better to walk a little further to one of the other restaurants in Marina Corricella.
Ristorante Gorgonia
You can also enjoy traditional Neapolitan dishes at Ristorante Gorgonia, located a little further along. It’s a great spot to order some grilled vegetables, cheese and bread for lunch. This is a perfect option, just like the restaurant mentioned above, as it allows you to avoid heavy dishes right away. The grilled vegetables are easy to share, leaving you with enough space for a delicious dinner later in the evening.
Caracalè
At Restaurant Caracalè, I try a local specialty: spaghetti con le canocchie. I forget to take a picture again, as I’m so absorbed in the taste of the canocchie. Canocchie, also known as squilla mantis, is a species of mantis shrimp found in the waters around Procida. It has a flavor similar to shrimp, but distinct in its own way. It’s definitely a dish to try when you’re on Procida and spot it on the menu. During my stay, Caracalè is the only place where I find it. In the summer, this restaurant is a fantastic choice, located on the quay with a view of Marina Corricella. Inside, like several of the other restaurants mentioned, it offers an authentic Italian atmosphere, with many locals at the tables; always a good sign!
Blu
Craving a drink with a small snack? Then Blu is a great place to settle in. During the winter months, don’t wait too long to take a seat, as the sun will be gone by the afternoon. If it’s too chilly outside, be sure to find a cozy spot indoors. Blu is located in a former cave on the quay of Marina Corricella, offering a unique blend of materials inside: high stone walls, wooden furniture and smooth plastered accents. It’s a lovely atmosphere! Still hungry? There’s a menu with small dishes and snacks to keep you satisfied.
How to get to Procida
Reaching Procida is easier than you might think. Simply fly to Naples! Once you arrive at Naples airport, you can take the Alibus (5 euros per person for a one-way ride) to Pozzuoli Port or Calata Porta di Massa. From Pozzuoli Port, you can catch a fast boat to Procida or a slower one from Calata Porta di Massa. If you don’t make it all the way by bus, taxis are also an option. Taxi fares start at 20 euros for a one-way trip, but you can often get a discount of around 5 euros. Once you arrive on Procida, you can easily explore on foot, as the island is just 4 km² in size.
B&B San Michele
Where to stay on Procida?
I can recommend several accommodations: B&B Prochytea, B&B Mediterraneo, B&B San Michele and Cala Cala Rooms & Farm Experience. I stay for three nights in the first two B&Bs. Both are good options, but I have a strong preference for Prochytea due to its location, which is close to Marina Corricella. I visit the last two accommodations during my stay and am very impressed by them. If you’re looking for something truly special and have the budget for it, I definitely recommend B&B San Michele or Cala Cala Rooms. And while you’re on the island, be sure to check out some of Procida’s filming locations!
